Small talk and friendliness
In general Finns don’t do it, mainly because we suck at it. The small talk québecois isn’t as aggressive as in English speaking Canada but still I find it weird how people, totally strangers to me, ask me how I am…what is it to you? And especially when the automatic answer is always “good” and in the end people don’t give a damn how you’re really doing. It just feels waste of time and energy for me.
Small talk creates the image of people being friendlier but like I said I feel it’s very shallow. It’s not that Finns cannot be friendly or helpful too but people consider one’s “personal space” physically and emotionally bigger I guess. That’s why we keep it on general level until we’re actually some sort acquaintances at least.
(Pic from montrealinpictures.com)
Drugs
I’m one of those rare people who’ve never used them. Call me boring but that’s my decision and I don’t judge those who do them but I have absolutely no desire to use drugs myself. In Finland the closest I’ve got to them is hearing an old class mate dying for an overdose. No one’s even offered or tried to sell me anything.
In here, on the other hand, they’re everywhere. Especially marijuana. You could even smell it in the air while attending events or just by walking in the streets. Or I could anyway. And people are so open about it. Super weird, I say.
Winter life
Finns seem to be like bears who go to sleep for the winter time and wake up when the spring arrives. Apart from the holidays like Christmas season and New Year's. Here, on the other hand, people don’t let the cold stop them for going out or arranging events. Super cool, I say.
(Igloofest, one of the coolest events in the city)
Restaurant culture
They say that Mtl has more restaurants than any other city in North America. I could even add to that the industry is blooming over here. All the famous cuisines of the world are represented and there are lots of small, cozy, special pubs, cafes and restaurants all over the city. For the staff, tipping seems to make the working in the industry worthwhile.
In Finland, thanks to our laws and regulations even having your own restaurant is quite difficult and expensive. Especially when the majority of Finns don’t wanna pay for a good service or diversity of products. Tipping isn’t mandatory even though you might bump into some rare Finnish customers who actually recognize a good service when they see it and reward the staff for it. Surprisingly self service is quite in common.
(Almost legendary Café Olimpico in Mile End)
Homeless people
Thanks to the Finnish social security system we don’t’ have much homeless people. Not where I come from anyway. In Helsinki there are some. But even still they aren’t as aggressive or visible part of the scenery.
Here they’re natural part of the cityscape. It took some time to get used to them. Haven’t given any money to any of them so far cause I still feel like I’d be supporting their choice not to work and to beg for their living. Even though I understand that things don’t work the same way here as they do back home and that some people probably haven’t ended up there by a choice.
Garbage system
Found this incredibly weird in the beginning. You just dump all the stuff on the streets which can include anything from furniture to..anything really. In Finland we use those big garbage bins (each house, building has its own) and it’s not okay to leave your old couch or a dishwasher next to it. That’s what landfills have been made for. But being quite expensive in Finland, has made the dumping in the woods –option, very popular. Unfortunately.
I would be willing to pay more taxes if we’d have the similar system in Finland too. At least people wouldn’t feel the need to dump their carbage in the nature.
Alcohol
People can drink and party hard here too. Apart from a few drunks at the subway, the number of people vomiting or passing out in the streets because they’ve had one too many is still zero so far. Unlike in Finland where the consumption of alcohol and the problems caused by it are present everywhere you go.
Sauna
Most of the spas seem to have a sauna and even some gyms but it doesn’t have the status of being part of almost every day life like in Finland. Haven’t dared to try one yet here.
More Coruña shots! This part of Spain has so much to offer!
Part trois and also the last one!: Another round of shots taken by me all over Helsinki. Obsessed with the waterfront, blackandwhite (they always look better, don’t they?) and flowers or any kind of hay. Got caught up by the storm, sunshine, following the duck and the lovely colours of autumn. And yes, filters used. One of these days I’ll get better at this and have courage to post my pics without them.
The last of Tallin. I promise. For a while anyhow.
Hey guys. Felt like rambling again.
Leaving Montréal and Québec behind me was as difficult as expected but it feels good to be home too. Autumn is on top of its beauty with the multicoloured trees, the air is briskly cool, leaves are falling down slowly. Rain or shine, this kind of autumn is my favourite time of the year.
So I made it home allright. In one piece. With all my luggages this time.
At the Toronto airport, very cool lounge I must say. Luggages were full so I was forced to wear my winter stuff..
On my way home, on the flight from Reykjavik to Helsinki, there was this old man on board.An 80-year old, originally born and raised in Finland and on his way home for the first time for the 30 years which he had lived in the States. As life-changing I’ve described my Montréal experience, it made me and my year feel quite small…and it is compared to that! His eyes were shining when he told how he hadn’t heard Finnish language been spoken so widely for decades and how he had missed Finnish food during the years he was gone. He had his grand-daughter and son-in-law with him to whom he wanted to show the country where the family's origins are from. It was touching to listen to his stories.
And when I did arrive in Helsinki, there was a pleasant surprise since some of my friends were waiting for me at the airport. What a luck also for them that my changes of flights went smoothly and I arrived as scheduled.
My favourite: Sallad with goat cheese buried in DEVIL'S JAM!!! :)
Surprisingly didn’t experience any jetlag. I just went to bed on the first night and that was all the sleep I needed. Almost disappointed, I was so prepared for it.
And as for what am I doing now. I’m back at my studies, more or less back at my old job and I’m living with my mom for the simple reasons that I don’t have any money for a flat of my own or any idea of a city, a place which I’d like enough to live in at the moment. Not exactly the place in my life where I’d like to be at 27 but… However there are possibilities, good options even in Finland but I just haven’t made up my mind yet. Somehow moving to a new Finnish city not knowing much people or having a job, scares me more than what moving to Montréal did. Weird eh?
Otherwise haven’t had much difficulty with settling in back to my old routines if you don’t take into account that I still keep adding tax to all the prices I see in the groceries, cafes, restaurants etc and that I find myself repeating ‘how are you?’ or ‘have a nice day’ to total strangers which is not the most common thing in here. I also have a strong desire to do so in French. Apparently I’ve picked up on some of the local ways of Montréal. Also some of the news that were just distant headlines in Québec are happening If not right here but pretty damn close anyways, across the eastern border. Scary eh?
Lahti
My québcoise journey had a bit of extension, if that is the right word for it, when a friend of mine from Montréal made a stop in Finland on her travel through Nordic Countries. Four days we did almost non-stop sightseeing in three Finnish cities and I gotta admit it was a quite eyes opening experience for me as well. After the year being abroad my perspective has definitely changed and I look at my country and culture differently. I appreciate the smallest things the most.
There is a change going on in my home town which seems to be noticeable only to my eyes. But still for my comfort the most important things are never changing like friends, family, the lake and ice cream section at the local groceries. People have been welcoming and it's been nice to see that I wasn't forgotten.
So for four days I fed my friend with traditional Finnish delicacies like salty liquorice, different ice cream flavours, blueberry cider and more or less fascinating facts about the Finnish history and society. Good trip overall! Merci Annick and I’ll see you in UK!
A medieval castle in Turku
Through my studies I also took part of the ArtSaturday which is a day version of La Nuit Blanche which I told you about last spring. Clearly way smaller over here and the reason why the night version was changed into this new day version is because people got too drunk. This is Finland for you! Anyways it was a blast this year, bigger and wider program of different activities than ever before in the city center.
Shame on you, Lahti folks who missed it for some crappy excuse! I was positively surprised by the entire project, the people organizing it and the experience itself. Good networking it was, met cool people. I wouldn’t have imagined that there are people in this town who care about this city enough to make such efforts for better Lahti happen. I wanna do it again next year! If I’ll be here.
So this what I’ve been up to after my québecoise experience which seems like a dream that happened only in my mind at this point. I can’t believe it, a year ago I was just beginning my dream, searching for trainee job and building up my new life. I miss the city, endless amount of possibilities whether it was about a job, social life or any free time activity you were looking for. Couchsurfing community and the friends I made.
Even thou I’ve been totally broke and I don't know if I'm ever gonna see any of the people I met in Montréal… Some might say that it was total waste of time.. But I still don’t regret a thing about the year I spent there. However I have a feeling that I might not be returning to Montréal anytime soon. Unless something super-surprising happens to me. But so far it looks like I’m gonna stick with Europe. UK and Spain attract me the most. But now as it feels it might not be a bad idea to live in Finland either. Feels kind of nice actually for a change.
No judgement but my dreams might be just a bit different from yours.
DON’T COME HERE DURING WINTER ... AND NOT
ESPECIALLY IN THE SPRING
Despite of being the sunniest capital in Europe winter which means from November ’till February is chilly, windy and rainy. The problem is not the temperature but the humidity and the fact that houses aren’t heated. Spring is not only rainy but super rainy. There can be 30 rainy days in one months trust me. March-April are is the worst time to visit here. Unless of course you like the rain.
Photo of Kerry Murray!
NO SPECIAL COFFEES (they have their own)
Portugal has a very strong coffee culture so they don’t need frappuccinos and fancy lattes – they have their own and they keep it simple. In the center you can find Starbucks and other international coffee shops but in general the traditional portuguese way is clearly more popular here especially among the locals. Take a look here how to order a portuguese coffee:
https://lisboasecreta.co/made-in/15-formas-de-pedir-cafe-em-lisboa-o-guia-que-te-faltava/
(not my pic)
PORTUGUESE FOOD AIN’T SPANISH FOOD OR ANYTHING SPICY (my opinion obviously)
A lot of people confuse this or expect these countries have similar food culture – not. They have the same ingredients but the way of using them is clearly different. Seafood is obviously in especially codfish in which there are over 300 recipes to cook it. Fish in general comes in all forms of cooking. Sardines seem to be another big hit. They use spices but carefully. Olive oil is the queen of portuguese cuisine and the local one is told to be the best in the world. Eggs are popular also so don’t wonder if you’ll find an egg on your steak or in your burger. The local cheese of goat’s or sheep’s milk are worth trying for.
ELECTRICITY AND TECHNOLOGY IS EXPENSIVE
When living in here even though many things are cheaper than elsewhere in Europe, housing is not of those things. Rents are a one thing but like having electricity and Internet + other technology is expensive. ”Bill included or not” are usually mentioned for a reason in the adds when rooms are being rented.
LISBON IS NOT A BEACH DESTINATION
To get to the beach you have to take a train or bus (1h-) depending which beach you wanna go to. There’s no beach in Lisbon. I’m sorry!
METROS RUN BETWEEN 10MIN AND THIS IS NORMAL
When I left Helsinki they had just renewed the metro timetable so that during the rush hour there’s a metro every two minutes. In Lisbon the normal waiting time is 10 minutes. Sometimes it’s shorter like 6 minutes but.. yeah. You don’t wanna have a minute schedule in this city.
Olaias Metro station (red line) - Not my pic!
PAY ATTENTION WHAT YOU PAY
Lisbon and Portugal are experiencing a huge tourism boom which has caused the price getting higher what comes to eating and drinking out + accommodation. I wish people while travelling would find out what is a normal price in a local range before buying a product with three times more expensive rate. But this is not a simple problem which would have a simple solution.
PEOPLE ARE HONEST AND ALWAYS APOLOGIZE
If you forget money on the machine or are given wrong amount of change back – people will come after you. Not that I wouldn’t keep a good care of my money but this goes for anything you might drop from your pocket or bag. But don’t think that pocket thieves or criminals don’t exist here! Another thing is if you bump into someone on the street or in the metro or wherever - make a gesture that you’re sorry and didn’t mean it. A simple gesture with a hand will do it. People appreciate this a lot in here.
VEGETERIANS ARE A MINORITY
Portuguese food is all about the fish and meat so vegetarians especially if you’re a vegan are struggling to find a proper meal in the local restaurants. However people are quite flexible sometimes, they can prepare something outside of the menu aaand the vegetarian diet is quite trendy at the moment so there a growing number of restaurants that are specialized vegetarian dishes...even in Portugal.
BOOKS, CD’S AND VINYLES STILL EXIST
The other side of the coin of Portugal being slow, traditional and old fashioned is that BOOKS, CD’S and VINYLS still very much exist unlike anywhere else where all the literature and music has gone online. Obviously there are plenty of strores that sell these things. This is what I love about Portugal!
After 12 months living in Lisboa I opened my Lonely Planet guide for Portugal and looked back what has been done and should be done before once I leave Lisbon. Yes, I have decided I’m gonna stick around for another year for professional and financial reasons but after that I’m gonna start looking for something else. Even thinking of returning to Montréal. But here are the wisdom of the first year living in the portuguese capital. I know I have learned some.
MOMENTS / EXPERIENCES:
After a photo shoot gone wrong because the sun rose in a wrong way I realized that the old trams which I have been wanting to take since I came here were EMPTY! So ended up taking one, actually severals on this random winter, sunny morning and just enjoying the ride while people rush to work, kids to school, shops open and the city awakens. The beauty of everyday life and that evident only for me.
Numerous Couchsurfing nights that went on forever untill the morning without plans and with random people you had never met before nor meet again. Good times and definitely fun times!
Tinder dates that last for 7h while learning new areas of the city, stories, tips etc! Nothing major romantic but time well spent definitely!
Sunrises seen almost as many as the pasteis de natas eaten thanks to my early schedule at work. No matter how cold or hot it is - and how badly which ever of those suits you I love how the amount of light changes according to the seasons. Even in here.
My hair looks so much better here than in Finland! No idea if it’s the vitamin D + zinc pills, the sun, the new SYOSS hair products or the combination of all of this - it is working!
My previous experiences abroad have been intense but none of them has lasted as long as my time in Lisbon. I don’t feel like this is my final destination but I’m feeling the time in here will play a significant role in my life however.
Obviously, Portugal gave me Eurovision. Despite of mixed feelings of how I look back at those weeks - obrigada!
1 museum, 3 palaces, 2 fortress + multiple churches visited and about 1000 left to visit more.
LOCAL KNOWLEDGE:
Hundreds and hundreds of Pasteis de Nata eaten. I know the best spots! Dare to say that I’m probably more expert than some locals.
After the negative first impressions I opened my eyes to my neighborhood and how great it is to live right here. Just local people without the tourists but still nice cafes, restaurants and shops. Whatever I need I know I can find it here! Can’t imagine living in anywhere else than in Alvalade-Roma-Areeiro area!
Seeing the beauty, the charm and history of the city and this country and why people come here and more importantly why they stay.
How unique is this city compared to anything else I’ve ever been and my experiences in the moment of time. Lisbon grows and changes rapidly and how I see it today will be already gone by tomorrow. Thanks to this it is innovative, international, personalized and different but also fragile, dying what it is old and local. I think of my touristic choices more from now on and their affect after I’ve done whatever I came to do and left the destination.
Knowing Lisboa spirit and understanding it a bit better every day. Embracing the details and colors around me – everything that makes Lisboa wrong and right but what makes it real. This city is a book to be read slowly and pages that continue forever.
LIFESTYLE:
Used to do Yoga before I came to Portugal but it was more random and not regular. Here however I can do it in my room as often as I can – just put some yoga music on from Youtube and tadaa! Another new hobby is bouldering/climbing which I don’t know how to do but I am still enjoying it!
Wherever you are and which ever turn you take on the streets of Lisbon – there will be a coffee shop! And not one of those international chains but an actual local portuguese cafeteria.
Never leaving empty handed from the markets where the hand made products are being sold (jewellery, clothes, souvenirs, etc). Especially the ones that you bump into randomly and unexpectedly.
Thousands of photos taken. I think I took better photos while living in Finland but I do have more material to go on here.
Exploring the country outside of Lisbon but not too far away not to be able to do day trips to visit the coast, amazing beaches, forests and mountains.
I ain’t a big fan of Portuguese food since I don’t eat seafood but instead I’ve had my eye on on the pastries and sweets since the beginning.
PEOPLE:
Knowing all the right people when your computer crashes, or you need a photographing buddy who knows all the best places or you need a new portuguese teacher etc. Lisbon is not that big and the international crowd with the locals is easy to navigate if only you make an effort!
Portuguese are a proud nation realizing its faults and are always happy to show you around and share their expertise.
When you break the ice with your neighbors, staff at your local store with people from here in general cause they are shy and somewhat distant in the beginning. But in the end you’ll get help, a friendly advice or whatever it was what you needed. They will go great lenghts for you.
LANGUAGE:
I’m still a far cry from a fluent Portuguese speaking but when you notice you understand quite a bit of what’s being said around you – in Portuguese.
Finding music in Portuguese which I love – and it’s not Fado.
Diogo Picarra - Paraiso (2018)
OVERALL:
When looking back the list I made before I left Finland - I've accomlished more or less everything I wanted. Only the language learning is the thing I'm a bit behind. So I’m on the right path here :)
When in Porto: tons of history at every where you look, cute streets and even cuter doors even though not as colourful as in Lisboa but cheerful anyhow! The famous book store, the river landscapes... I just scratched the surface so have to go back again! Especially since I didn’t have Francesinha or Port wine which are the local delicacies (I know I’m a criminal!)
As much as I’d love to tell you that so much has happened since my last post and this huge number of events is the reason why I haven’t updated this blog I’m afraid the situation is quite the opposite. I have been just really tired and unmotivated to write anything. So not much has evolved since my last post but I thought an update wouldn’t hurt anyone.
I have started studing portuguese, probably the biggest change so far! And I’ve decided to take the local approach while doing it. SLOWLY. So far had only a few classes and I’m not being nearly as active during my free time as I would want to but I am building an idea in my head of how this language works. Many things are similar from other Latin languages since I’ve studied Spanish, Italian and French and then there are other things that are completely new and bizarre. And it is surprisingly hard to let go of the things that have become familiar to me in other languages. But in time.. #patience
I found my teacher Carla on Facebook. She’s a local, 30-somewhat-year-old kindergarden teacher who teaches portuguese for foreigners also. Many TP (teleperformance) employees as well. My employer does offer free language courses but since almost all employees come from somewhere else the classes are quite popular and waiting lists long (6 months in fact). So I thought I’d ”speed” things up.
Discovering music in portuguese...even though they’re from Brazil I think.
This way of studying gives me also flexibility which I couldn’t have had while studying in a group even though it might have been cheaper. I usually have 1,5h lesson once a week so I’ll have time to do something else also during the week. Carla lives on top of many hills of Lisboa, somewhat in the old part of the town, at least compared to the area where I live. I just love to go to her house cause the streets are filled with tons of details, doors, walls, ghost house, local life without too many tourists.
To support my language learning I try to read the news in portuguese at least once a day and I’m also in search of PORTUGUESE pop music. Because music has been a huge help every time I’ve studied a foreign language. All I find is Brazilian artists, nothing wrong with them but I’m very picky about the pronunciation as I am at quite early stage of learning. Don’t wanna learn the wrong thing here. If you have any suggestions please don’t hesitate to tell me!
About differences between portuguese spoken in EU and overseas..
My weekly routine is a mixture of on-off routines… gym, yoga, tinder dates, couchsurfing events.. I’ve come to a habit of spending my Saturday evenings with a bunch of couchsurfers. Dinner and drinks – always having a good time. Besides of travelers there is quite an impressive number of locals being active also.
Tinder I use even less for a romantic purpose but I do use it. And I’ve had some pretty good friend dates. Even though you wouldn’t meet the person again it’s educating to hear different life stories and opinions. Especially when you’re a foreigner living in a new country. Great new areas, bars, cafes etc discovered through these! Have an open mind!
Pink street. Pretty touristic but a good selection of bars, live venues etc. I often end up here with couchsurfers..
I found a nice gym about 15min away from my place. Monthly fee is 30€ unless you sign a contract for a year when you pay 10€ less monthly. There’s also a female section separately which is not big but it’s calm and works for me. It’s cheap and you can notice it sometimes in the machines but like I said I manage. And it’s open 24h/7 so I don’t need to check the opening hours.
Banks and phones don’t still work the way I’d like them to but I have my Finnish ones so what the hell.. I try not to stress about things. Let them go on their pace and ignore the things I can’t control.
Flat stuff! Our laundry machine was broken for three weeks and when we finally got a guy to fix it – it took like 3min! So portuguese slow. Anyhow it works now which is amazing! Meanwhile I went to this self service laundry place around the block.
I’m starting to know Lisboa. The historical capital with obviously strong artistic vibe. Now and as in the past and probably in the future too. Almost every street, statue, square is named after a poet, writer, musician or an artist of some sort. Reading the history of the city opens up to me differently now when I can walk on the same streets and pass the buildings where this country was built, shaped and later on changed numerous times.
Financially I’m better here. I make pretty much the same money (after taxes and rent) as I did in Finland but with things being cheaper here - I’m more free here financially. My employer clearly has some sort of reputation here and the company is widely known but I don’t care what other people say. My experiences have only been positive so far. At least to compared to Finnish companies in a similar field there are many things to be grateful for.
Work is allright. I still go there. Training has been over for quite some weeks now and officially I should be on some sort of pro-level. Mornings ain’t my favorites especially when they start so damn early. I wake up 4:30am to catch the local train at 5:44 and be at work 6:30am. There’s a lot spare time there but at that time of the day there aren’t much connections to choose from. But location-like I’m super lucky cause the train to work is the best and fastest option in the city. And my body has adjusted quite easily to the new rhythm and I’m pretty ready for the bed after 8:30pm. And it’s nice to skip the rush hours when coming and going though social life is hard to plan when you’re starting to get sleepy at dinner time (portuguese eat late).
EUROVISION IS APPROACHING!!! Anyhow here you can see my local train station, the shopping mall where I have my lunch sometimes, do my shopping and see the area in general where I go to work to every day..
Days vary and are colorful because of the people who call. Got some pretty legendary stuff already in good and bad. Some calls take a lifetime and others not. I get calls about 20-40 every day. Even though my job is to listen people complaining I still like it! I like to work with the hotels stuff, flight stuff and tourism stuff in general so it makes everything nicer. There are a lot of RULES because we work in a customer service, because we handle payments and refunds, because we work on the phones. I know they exist for a reason so I don’t mind.
Even though things don’t work always as I’d like them to or even understand why they are as they are, I am super grateful for the helpful co-workers around me though who have the patience to give me a hand every time I need it. Apparently I’ve done some sales also cause I won a competition on the other Monday. But still it’s gonna take a long time before I’m gonna feel being good at what I do.
Weather like..it’s still very summery here at least during the days almost reaching +30C every day. But mornings especially at the hour I wake up, are chilly sometimes even cold. My room is freezing with the +15 temperatures during the nights and I was also sick on the other weekend. Not much rain thouh. Yet.
I’m actually looking forward to the cooler weather, less tourists and scenery changing. For the next post I’ll promise to get cracking – to make some progress with the Lisboa/Portugal to do list of mine.
Finnish traveler. Experienced Montréal and la vie québecoise 2013-2014. Living in Lisbon, Portugal since July 2017. Into photographing, eurovision, pop music, ice cream, coffee and travelling. MASTERLIST
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